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by
Paris Permenter & John Bigley
Looking
for a destination where the two of you can tempt each
other without the distractions of tours, shopping,
cities, and too many other travelers?
In
the Caribbean, you'll find many small islands where
the emphasis can be on the two of you. When you're
ready to take a break from activity, sprinkled through
the islands are some hideaways that beg travelers
to kick off their shoes, toss on some sunscreen, then
grab a book and a buddy.
Many
islands even have a special word for this lack of
activity: limin', a way to enjoy life at a destination
where the livin' is easy.
TURKS
AND CAICOS
"The
number one activity here is to do nothing," says
Tom Lewis, general manager of Ocean Club, a low-rise
resort tucked on a quiet stretch of sand on the island
of Providenciales. And why not? Folks don't come to
the remote Turks and Caicos islands, located east
of the Bahamas, to enjoy duty-free shopping, glitzy
nightlife, or days of sightseeing tours. They come
for the beach, the sun, and the clear-as-white-rum
waters that surround these quiet islands.
Providenciales,
better known as simply Provo, boasts the largest portion
of the Turks and Caicos population but it is still
open and unsettled. This sickle-shaped island is dotted
with scrubby growth, short palms and climbing sea
grapes. Chalky limestone roads wind across the flat
island, connecting settlements like Blue Hills and
The Bight.
But
the traveler to Provo will soon realize that its desert
terrain is just a backdrop to the beaches and clear
waters that are the main attractions. On some parts
of the island the beaches stretch for miles, dotted
only with the footprints of iguanas or shorebirds.
You won't find beach vendors or hagglers on these
shores, just a few tourists and locals enjoying snorkeling
or a swim in the gentle surf. High rises are forbidden,
with resorts built no taller than three stories.
And,
if you're lucky, you may just get the chance to meet
Provo's most treasured resident: JoJo. This wild dolphin
has been sighted for 12 years along the island's north
coast, the only case ever documented of prolonged
interaction between an individual wild dolphin and
humans. Often spotted swimming along the north shore
or near boats, JoJo is protected and the government
has declared him a national treasure.
TOBAGO
Locals
say it's a destination for the "newly wed and
the nearly dead." Tobago may not be as well known
as its political partner Trinidad, but in the world
of travelers looking for peace and quiet it's the
leader. Like city and country cousins, Trinidad and
Tobago each have their own unique personalities. While
Trinidad bustles with activity, tiny Tobago is a favorite
with those looking to get away from it all. It's treasured
by the world's birders and also scuba divers, who
seek out giant manta rays near the village of Speyside.
But most of all, it's a place where travelers enjoy
life that moves to a Caribbean beat. Goats graze in
every field; coconut palm-lined beaches offer quiet
getaways; luxury resorts pamper guests with everything
from dining to spa experiences.
On
Tobago, nightlife is unique and laid back. Once a
week the island parties at "Sunday School,"
held every Sunday in the community of Buccoo Village.
This open-air street party doesn't get cranked up
until near midnight, so come prepared to stay up late
and enjoy the pulsating sounds of calypso and soca.
LITTLE
CAYMAN
If
you plan to spend most of your time looking for that
secluded strip of sand where you never see another
set of footprints, then Little Cayman should be your
destination. It's little changed from a century ago,
a perfect place to get away from it all and spend
your day on a bicycle peddling empty roads, snorkeling
in pristine waters, or looking for that perfect beach.
Just
80 miles northeast of Grand Cayman, Little Cayman
is worlds apart in terms of atmosphere. Appropriate
to its name, this isle spans only 11 miles in length
and two miles at its widest point. Boasting none of
the glitz of Grand Cayman, Little Cayman does greet
guests with all the basic comforts, including several
small lodges and condominiums with air-conditioning,
satellite television, and telephone service.
With
just over 100 permanent residents, the island's largest
population is that of birds and iguanas. Over 2,000
Little Cayman Rock Iguanas inhabit the island, so
many that "Iguana Crossing" and "Iguana
Right of Way" signs are posted throughout the
island to protect the five-foot long lizards.
Little
Cayman's chief draw is its ecotourism: diving, fishing,
and bird watching. The late Phillipe Cousteau called
the island's Bloody Bay Wall one of the best dives
of his life; today it's still a favorite with divers.
NEVIS
Imagine
a country inn where rooms brim with antiques and are
cooled by a gentle breeze off a wide porch. You ease
into a wicker chair, sip an icy drink, and enjoy a
view unbroken by roads, electrical lines, or even
fellow travelers.
This
is Nevis (pronounced NEE-vis), an island that offers
all the country comforts and bed-and-breakfast luxury
you might look for in a New England getaway. Here,
however, palms replace pines and color comes, not
from scarlet leaves, but from azure seas, beaches
in shades of both black and white, and verdant forests
that engulf the island.
Nevis
(along with St. Kitts, its partner in this two-island
nation) boasts one of the Caribbean's largest concentrations
of plantation homes. The islands were once dotted
with sugar plantations and greathouses, but today
these stately manses have been transformed into elegant
bed-and-breakfast inns especially popular with European
vacationers and with Americans looking to experience
a slice of the Caribbean "the way it used to
be." Don't look for reggae lessons, limbo contests
or mixology classes at these properties; instead,
expect a sophisticated atmosphere similar to a fine
country inn where the emphasis lies, not on providing
fun for its guests, but in pointing the way for independent
travelers to make their own discoveries.
Columbus
first named this island because of the ever-present
cloud that circled Mount Nevis, giving it almost a
snow-capped look. Today the cloud still lingers over
the mountain peak. Home to only 9,000 residents, this
country cousin has a charming atmosphere all its own,
plus a good share of plantation houses where guests
can enjoy a look back at Caribbean history.
Lovetripper.com editors John Bigley and Paris Permenter
are a husband-wife team of travel writers. Longtime
residents of central Texas near Austin, the couple
has authored 27 guidebooks. Their travel coverage
has included destinations from Malta to Morocco, Cyprus
to the Cayman Islands. Both Paris and John are members
of the Society of American Travel Writers.
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